Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• The history and current landscape of system boards
• Where Kilter fits compared to the Moon Board and others
• Why adjustability and a dense variety of hold types matters
• Kevin's assessment of me as a boulderer
• Route climber pitfalls when we turn our sights to bouldering
• My current strengths and weaknesses
• Grades, and why they differ indoors, outdoors, and on boards
• A look ahead at my training journey
• The impact of endurance training on strength adaptations
• The surprising benefit of setting problems on the board
• How to get stronger fingers using larger holds

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
• Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score a free gift pack plus $500-$1000 off depending on your setup (Fullride, Mainline, and Auxiliary kits) let’s gooooo!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right):

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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• How she went from struggling on 5.11 to sending twelve 5.12s in a year
• Simple strength training that resulted in less injuries and her biggest sending spree ever
• How she sent her first V5, V6, and V7 in a matter of a couple months
• The impact of picking one thing to focus on
• The power of doing regular self-assessments and what it has taught her
• How to build confidence indoors that translates to outdoor projects
• Making quick gains by climbing with the right crew
• Her impressive system for planning and logging her training and climbing

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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Check out Annette's fancy spreadsheets and make a copy for your own use if you're psyched (tabs we discussed were the Assessment and 2024 Sport Climbing Stats... but others might be useful as well): thestruggleclimbingshow.com/annette

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

Check out Annette's sends and struggles on Insta: @4amazingbetas

Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

• Which grip type is the best to train?
• How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results
• Which finger training to do pre season vs in season
• What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training?
• Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade?
• The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade
• The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance
• Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs
• Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training
• Training while injured
• How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day
• How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game
• Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing?
• How Tyler programs his training and climbing days
• What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau

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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Climbing Coach Nate Drolet captains the Struggle Bus on my Road to V8 as we cover:

• Recap of winter strength and power training
• Climbing my first gym V7
• Getting better without getting stronger
• Video assessment of recent board struggles
• Macro vs micro beta when it comes to board training
• How to learn from our better climbing friends
• Why Nate could tell I wasn’t REALLY trying
• Why sport climbing can sabotage bouldering goals
• Nerd Gummies and other tricks to send

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!

If you’re looking to equip your home wall with some beautiful hand-crafted wood holds, check out http://ManaHolds.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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In this episode, elite climber Kyra Condie explores:

• "You suck try harder"
• Spray walls vs system boards
• Struggles with modern comp setting
• The power of the campus board
• Her super simple hang board routine
• Game changing skin care tips
• Tools to handle performance anxiety
• How to up/down regulate for a specific objective
• Updates from the World Cup and Olympic formats
• The elusive million dollar climbing sponsorship
• What even are the grades of comp climbs?

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CHAPTERS:

• Struggle: (0:05:48)
• Training: (0:15:53)
• Nutrition: (0:38:31)
• Tactics: (0:47:23)
• Mental Game: (0:57:19)
• Purpose: (1:27:58)

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

• 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

Check out Kyra's YouTube channel, and the Circle Up! Podcast she does with Allison vest.

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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The new Weekend Warrior series will feature stories of amateur climbers who have taken their training and performance to new heights, and shine a light on what they feel have been the difference makers in their growth. Today, we're connecting with Aaron Townsley to learn about the simple finger training protocol he developed for himself and some friends, which has yielded amazing results on and off the rock.

Here is a doc that Aaron created, outlining the BORK protocol: https://docs.google.com/document/d/14dncDso1ZIMCROkzYJJhVoT6tApUbVw05nVVVMU5PiU/edit?usp=sharing

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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• Going from beginner to advanced in climbing
• Grades vs No Grades
• Finger training that helped him to level up as a climber
• Century Crack dreams
• Learnings from Pete Whittaker
• Why we shouldn't say "I'm not strong enough"
• How to improve very quickly on dynamic climbs
• Tips to manage fear of falling
• Parkour 101 for climbers
• The future of STORROR

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CHAPTERS:

• Struggle: 0:05:32
• Training: 0:12:39
• Nutrition: 0:38:09
• Tactics: 0:44:47
• Mental Game: 1:01:12
• Purpose: 1:23:40

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow and check out Toby's insane stuff with STORROR /@storror

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!