Dress Codes

How the Laws of Fashion Made History

By: Richard Thompson Ford

Narrated by: Bill Andrew Quinn

For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Dress codes evolved along with the social and political ideals of the day, but they always reflected struggles for power and status. In the 1700s, South Carolina's "Negro Act" made it illegal for Black people to dress "above their condition." In the 1920s, the bobbed hair and form-fitting dresses worn by free-spirited flappers were banned in workplaces throughout the United States, and in the 1940s the baggy zoot suits favored by Black and Latino men caused riots in cities from coast to coast.

Even in today's more informal world, dress codes still determine what we wear, when we wear it-and what our clothing means. And even when there are no written rules, implicit dress codes still influence opportunities and social mobility. Silicon Valley CEOs wear t-shirts and flip flops, setting the tone for an entire industry: Women wearing fashionable dresses or high heels face ridicule in the tech world and some venture capitalists refuse to invest in any company run by someone wearing a suit.

In Dress Codes, law professor and cultural critic Richard Thompson Ford presents an insightful and entertaining history of the laws of fashion from the middle ages to the present day.

©2021 Richard Thompson Ford (P)2021 Tantor

The different perpectives through time

It was interesting to understand that how we dress are part history, part who we are in our different societies and how we can ignore or take part of it.

great book

sometimes I felt like the same story goes round and round for all the hours, but still it's very very good book, lots of new information, and I totally changed my mind about many things! very important voice!

Great addition to Ann Hollanders histories of fashion.

Well argued and the focus on dress codes and their applications was a great way into the discussion. It’s also interesting and well written with seriousness and wit.

I recommend turning Ann Hollanders books into audiobooks as well. Her work is referred to repeatedly and this is a great subject to delve into.

Far beyond your typical book on dress

Another listener disliked the vocalist for this book, and some found it repetitive. I thought the vocalist was excellent with a great reading rhythm that added to my comprehension. Did not detract. There are theses that the author repeats, but each is connected to a nuanced and worthy example to include.

This book is especially good at viewing fashion through multiple influences and emphasizing the right ones in different eras— many books are stuck in a rut of common explanations for why dress changes (eg discovered tailoring, Queen Elizabeth, elastic, WWI). This book is far more convincing and doesn’t just tell you stupid stuff like “well everyone wanted to look like the queen” or “decorative skirts showed high class” without ever explaining why suddenly no one cared to look like a queen later, or decorations fell out of favor.

This book really presents cohesive reasons that are much more believable and in depth. His discussion of how and why menswear dramatically changed in the great male renunciation in the 1700s is an absolute standout. Also if you need any more reasons to listen now — the author uses the law as a rich source of information and it delivers. Many books on dressing relegate sumptuary laws to the mid 1500s as basically a hilarious absurdity to poke at. This book gives law its due respect and really discusses the truth — that for many periods of time western civilizations have enacted dress codes by law. That national uniform was a seriously discussed and at times enacted concept. That dress codes have been enforced against many kinds of professions and people in reaction to social changes. It’s absolutely fascinating and presented in an interesting and unbiased way. The author passes little judgement on society, but explains well the forces behind our clothes. Loved this book.

Naieve

The naive perspective of this book is not suitable for those who are already knowledgeable in textile history, and for those who who are new to studying fashion and textiles there are so many more books that might be more suitable.

Unlistenable

The narration is so awful it makes this selection an absolute no-go. Ever sentence is read with the same emphasis, it sounds like a computer, not a person. Nothing to make it come alive or even just feel warm and real. Utterly rigid and forced. The content is not the deep dive I was hoping for either, just a surface level pass over. Very disappointing.