All for a Few Perfect Waves

The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora

De: David Rensin

Narrado por: Sean Runnette

For 20 years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers - a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974.

The New York Times named him "[T]he most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce", and Vanity Fair called him "[A] dark prince of the beach". To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

©2008 David Rensin (P)2020 Tantor

Intriguing even for a non-surfer

A 73 year old surfer (and non reader) turned me onto this book. He was so excited that I wanted to read it. My only criticism is that people are quoted without explanation of who they are and in the beginning I was looking each up on the Internet because I didn't realized it was explained at the end.

Love surfing? You’ll love Miki and you’ll hate him.

This book is amazing!!! The stories of an insane and free life. The lengths a man will go to remain free and ride as many waves as he can.

On his own terms

Engrossing story of a gifted individual who lived life completely on his own terms which put him apart from conventional society’s standards in every way.
Loved and hated he travelled the world to surf perfect empty waves and ski big slopes and court beautiful women to enjoy life every day by whatever means it took

Overall, kinda what ib expected it to be

Miki was an enigmatic guy. He just wanted to surf, and from all I've read this hits the truth the hardest. The man just wanted to surf and not work. I've no qualms over the material. I actually came to appreciate and like the man as he realized he had apologies to make toward the end.

All in all, I'd give it a go. It's a great peek into surfing at its infancy, and I was blown away by his many connections. After all he did he was still deeply respected and loved and if that doesn't tell you something then I'm not sure what can. He was a flawed. affable, and charming man whose zest for the ocean is inspiring.

Disappointing

As I was growing up, Miki Dora was a surfing hero to me. Sadly, this book just sucked the life out of all that. Clearly my fascination with Da Cat was completely misplaced. I almost stopped listening on a number of occasions. Why was I wasting my precious reading time reading about this derelict? What I can't understand is why the author would spend as much time as he clearly did on this character. There is nothing compelling about this guy... Except for his surfing prowess, I see very little redeeming about this individual. The book is incredibly well researched however. And I thought the format of the book was original and creative. It seemed like the author described Mr. Dora in everyone else's voice. If it hadn't been for the subject matter, it would have been refreshing. However, as it is, I wish I hadn't wasted my time with this one.